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This is how I pack up one of my shaving horses. I wrap a rope
around the bundle and go. |
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Showing the tapered holes (they don't go all the way through the seat)
and the tapered leg. As you can see, it doesn't require much of a
taper at all. Very slight. I formed the leg taper by just using
the drawknife. |
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Here's the tapered reamer that I made for my chairs and stools.
Basically, it's just a compass saw blade with the teeth (mostly) ground off.
I made a wooden holder for it on the pole lathe and cut a slit for the blade
to fit into. This keeps the blade stiff enough to do its work and also
gives me a t-handle on top to grip and turn with. |
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Blade going into it's holder. |
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As you can see, it doesn't require much of the blade peeking out on each
side to work. You can also see that the teeth aren't completely ground
off either. Actually, it seems to work better this way rather than
grinding the teeth completely off. |
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There's the handle where you grip it to do the turning of the tapered
reamer in the pre-drilled hole. The basic design (a scraper blade with
a slight taper and some kind of t-handle on top so you can turn the blade in
the hole) is what the tapered reamer is like for the holes I made for the
shaving horse. |
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First, I drilled a hole at the angle and depth that I wanted with a
forstner bit. |
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Then I took a short piece of 1/4" thick steel and ground the sides to a
slight taper. The hole that I drilled for this shaving horse is 2".
I made a taper at the end of about 1 3/4" up to just over 2" wide to fit
that hole size. I left the little burrs on the sides where I ground it
so that they will do some work in scraping the hole to the taper I need.
I drilled the hole at the top so I could slip a steel rod in there to grip
(a t-handle) and turn the tapered reamer in the hole. |
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Unfortunately, I couldn't find the steel rod when I was taking the
pictures. Just slowly turn the reamer to scrape out the taper needed. |
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I then formed the same taper on the leg. |
