... And so then there was a knock at the door. It was
the deliveryman with my vacuum pump. I had never used a vacuum pump before
in my work with the wood lathe but I was quite interested in the new
possibilities it promised to offer. So began my little journey with
it. I've described a few of the things I've done to and with it so far.
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Here's the vacuum pump. It's a Gast 1/4 hp, 4.5 cfm,
220V, pump capable of drawing around 26" of mercury. It came
mounted to a stainless frame and with the inlet and outlet filters you
see. All I did was add an electrical switch and a 1/4" elbow to
the inlet filter. You can see the clear reinforced hose come from
it. |
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The hose then goes to a few fittings that you see here. It's
positioned next to the lathe so it's easy to reach and read while working
at the lathe. I'll mount it on a board behind the lathe soon.
You can see the vacuum gauge I got from Grainger for around $7US.
Also there's a 1/4" water gate valve. That's for adjusting the
pressure. I used this kind of valve because it takes a few turns to
fully open or close it. This gives a great deal of control in just
how much vacuum I want to get. To slowly decrease the pressure, I simply
let a small leak into the system at this valve. This is how I mount
and unmount turnings instead of starting/stopping the pump. |
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From the fittings in the above picture, the tube goes to my
homemade rotary fitting. It's just a block of wood with a bearing
(the dark ring is part of it) that has an NPT fitting in it. The
block of wood, on the other side which is butted up to the hollow spindle
on the handwheel side. The block of wood spins with the lathe but
the bearing just spins and keeps the hose from wrapping around (at
terrific speeds!). |
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Here's a wider view. |
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On the other side is where the threaded lamp tube (used for
making/repairing lamps) comes through the spindle to the working end of
the headstock. I've used a tapered washer that fits both the tube on
the inside and the Morse Taper #2 on the outside. The lamp tube
screw fits snug up to the washer and holds the whole thing together. I'll
have to add a drawing of this part of the system soon..... and here it is!
<grin> |
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Here's a wider view from this angle. You can also see
a simple and small vacuum chuck I made. |
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UPDATE
Here's what I'm using now instead of the through-spindle rotary
adapter described above. I simply replaced the factory handwheel
with my own. This stays on permanently now. There's no tube
running through the hollow spindle. I got tired (yes, within just
a few weeks) of taking that other rotary adapter on and off when I
wanted to use the morse taper of the lathe.
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Here's a shot of the double sealed bearing. I made the
handwheel extra long for a reason. You don't have to do that. You
could just make it short. I used hard maple like on everything
else with this vacuum system project. I also sealed the wood with
polyurethane just like everything else so I won't get leaks through the
pores of the wood.
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A closeup of the outboard side of the lathe headstock. On the
Jet Mini, it's a 3/4" x 16 tpi right hand thread (UPDATE:
It is a LEFT HAND THREAD. Thanks to Clem for pointing this out to me. He
should win a prize for catching my goof but I can't think of what.
Any ideas? Send them here
and we'll see what we can do for Clem.). I just
found a nut like that and glued it into a recess in the maple block that
I turned for this.
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Notice nothing interfering with the morse taper. Nothing to take out
when I want to use it.
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I did have to make a longer knockout rod since I made the handwheel
extra long. Just used some 5/16" (I think) rod of appropriate
length and turned a small ball of hard maple for the end. Notice
that the knockout rod can be actually used! Why?.....
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Because there's nothing in the bearing hole to interfere with
it! Unlike the other rotary adapter described above, I don't have
the hose fitting glued into it. I have the hose fitting
permanently attached to the hose and just put the fittings' threaded end
into the bearing hole when I want to run vacuum.
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Here's a closeup of the hose fitting. Notice the little black
rubber ring / gasket on the threads of the hose fitting? That fits
snuggly into and against the bearing and creates an air-tight fit.
When the vacuum is on, the hose is held nice and tightly in the bearing.
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Like that. I just pop it off there when not using vacuum.
I can then use my knockout rod as usual.
Here's a drawing of this new rotary adapter that's permanently
attached to the lathe now.....
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END UPDATE |
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Here's the same chuck but without the rotary adapter in the
spindle. It's just a homemade screw-on wooden faceplate that I
modified to work for vacuum work. I just hollowed out the inside to
reveal the hex nut. I rounded the outter edges so it wouldn't mar
the turnings used on it. I also added some closed-cell foam to get a
good seal. This is about the minimum size of vacuum chuck and only
certain things can be held on it. The greater the surface area that
the vacuum is acting on, the greater the hold (pressure exerted for a
given level of vacuum). It holds spheres and some eggs for sanding
but not much cutting with the tools. |
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Here's the backside of the large faceplate vacuum
chuck. It's just a hex nut (1" x 8 tpi in the case of my Jet
Mini lathe) glued with a polyurethane glue into a recess of a maple
board. This arrangement works quite well and is strong. |
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The front side. Just a small hole is all that's
needed. What's not shown is the closed-cell foam that covers this
face of the faceplate vacuum chuck. Bowls or other turnings with
continuous and even rims (not natural edged pieces) work well on this
chuck. It takes a bit of fiddling to get the piece on there just
perfect though. |
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Now, I'm starting to make what I call the "long neck
vacuum chuck". It's designed to reach down inside of a bowl or
other turning in order to get a nice, round, continuous place to get a
good seal. Things like natural edged bowls for instance. You
need the long "neck" (the white PVC in the picture) to give you
clearance so the rim of your turning doesn't hit the headstock or even the
chucks' base. So, I start out by measuring the PVC diameter. |
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I then take one of my homemade screw-on wooden faceplates
(with a hole in the middle of it) and cut a grove to match the PVC's
diameter. |
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There it is. The faceplate is about 3/4" thick so
I made the groove around 1/2" deep. I tried to make it so it's
a very snug fit for the PVC pipe to fit into. However, at the bottom of
that groove, I made it a little wider than at the top (near the outside)
of the groove. I did this so that it would give the glue a little more
"bite" and surface area to hold onto the wood. |
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About to be mated. (The song "Together ....
Forever ..." is going through my head right now. Yes, it's sick and
twisted but then I've been smelling fumes most of the day!) |
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Here's the glue I used. It's just a polyurethane. Brand
doesn't make much difference. I've found that polyurethane glues do
well when bonding dissimilar materials such as metal / wood / plastic and
so on. You get foaming but it's not a problem in this case. |
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Spread the glue in the groove. |
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Pop the PVC neck in there. |
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A view from the inside. |
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I let that set up for a couple of hours and then go over the
PVC / wood joint with more poly glue. |
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Inside too. |
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After overnight, it foams up and it's set. Not
pictured is the closed cell foam that I put on the PVC rim so it doesn't
mar the woodturnings. By the way, this chuck works VERY well for
balls/spheres but they have to be sized just right so that they
just barely slip inside the PVC. Enough to get a good bit of suction
on them but not enough that it gets sucked too far inside and you can't
work on them ... or get them out! |
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That's it! Well, not quite. The last step with any
vacuum chucks (or any of the wooden fixtures in the system for that
matter) I make is to seal them. Yes, wood is porous to some degree
and I want to eliminate any leaks from the system. So, I simply coat
all of the wooden parts to the vacuum chucking components with a film
building finish. I'm using just a few coats of a wiping urethane (thinned
polyurethane). It seals the wood so air won't escape from that
direction. Please Please Please do wait until the finish is really
dry. If not, you'll get some of that gooey finish sucked right into
your vacuum pump and/or filters. Nasty and could ruin your pump! |
As I make more chucks, I'll add them here.